Italian Cuisine
Zeppole (Italian Doughnuts)
By Lucia Esposito, Neapolitan pastry chef and third-generation owner of a Naples friggitoria specializing in festival sweets
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Zeppole are inseparable from Italian celebration, and nowhere more than in Naples, where they crown the feast of San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph) every March 19th. Traditionally there are two great families of zeppole: the choux-pastry zeppole di San Giuseppe, piped into rings and filled with pastry cream and a sour cherry, and the humbler fried-dough zeppole sold by the dozen at street fairs, sagre, and carnivals from Campania down to Calabria. This recipe belongs to the second, festive tradition, the kind you eat hot from a paper cone with sugar on your fingers. The use of ricotta in the batter is a distinctly southern Italian touch, lending tenderness and a faint dairy sweetness that keeps the interior custardy rather than bready, a cousin of the Roman and Sardinian ricotta fritters served at Carnevale. Frying in deep, hot oil is essential to the science: the moisture in the ricotta and eggs flashes to steam, puffing each ball into a light sphere with a crackling shell. Italians dust them with powdered sugar the moment they leave the oil, when the residual heat helps the sugar cling. To make zeppole is to make a small fairground at home, a treat meant to be shared warm, immediately, and generously.
Ingredients
Serves 6Instructions
- 1
In a heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat about 2-3 inches of oil to 375°F (190°C).
- 2
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and a pinch of salt.
- 3
In a separate bowl, whisk together the ricotta cheese, beaten eggs, and vanilla extract until smooth.
- 4
Add the ricotta mixture to the flour mixture and stir gently until just combined. Do not overmix.
- 5
Carefully drop tablespoon-sized balls of dough into the hot oil. Fry in batches, being careful not to overcrowd.
- 6
Fry for 3-4 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden brown and puffed.
- 7
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
- 8
Dust generously with powdered sugar while warm and serve.
Chef's Tips
- ✦ Keep the oil steady at 375°F (190°C) with a thermometer; too cool and the zeppole absorb grease, too hot and they brown before the centers cook.
- ✦ Use two spoons or a small cookie scoop to drop uniform tablespoon-sized rounds so every zeppola cooks at the same rate.
- ✦ Don't overmix once the wet and dry are combined; a slightly lumpy batter yields lighter, more tender doughnuts.
- ✦ Fry in small batches of four or five so the oil temperature doesn't crash and the zeppole have room to roll and puff evenly.
- ✦ Dust with powdered sugar the instant they come out of the oil and are still hot, so the sugar melts slightly and clings instead of sliding off.
Ingredient Substitutions
-
ricotta cheese → well-drained whole-milk ricotta or mascarpone
Drain watery ricotta in a sieve for 15 minutes; mascarpone makes a richer, slightly denser zeppola.
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all purpose flour → 1-to-1 gluten-free baking flour
Choose a blend that contains xanthan gum so the batter still holds together; the texture will be a touch more delicate.
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granulated sugar → honey or superfine sugar
Use the same volume; honey adds a floral note but can deepen browning, so watch the oil temperature.
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vanilla extract → lemon or orange zest, or a splash of anisette/limoncello
Citrus zest and anise are very traditional southern Italian flavorings for festival zeppole.
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vegetable oil for frying → peanut oil or sunflower oil
Any neutral oil with a high smoke point (around 400°F) works; avoid olive oil, which burns and overpowers the flavor.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make zeppole ahead of time? ▼
Zeppole are at their best within minutes of frying, when the shell is crisp and the inside is custardy. You can mix the batter up to an hour ahead and keep it chilled, but fry just before serving. If you must reheat fried zeppole, warm them in a 350°F oven for a few minutes to re-crisp, then re-dust with fresh powdered sugar.
How do I know when the zeppole are fully cooked? ▼
Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning occasionally, until they are deep golden brown and puffed on all sides. The dough should sound hollow and feel light. If you're unsure, sacrifice one and break it open: the center should be set and fluffy, not wet or doughy. Keeping the oil at 375°F ensures the inside cooks through before the outside over-browns.
Can I double or scale this recipe? ▼
Yes. The recipe makes about six servings and scales cleanly, so simply multiply each ingredient. When frying larger quantities, keep batches small to maintain oil temperature, and let the oil return to 375°F between batches. A larger, deeper pot helps you fry more at once without overcrowding.
What can I use instead of ricotta? ▼
Well-drained whole-milk ricotta gives the classic tender crumb, but mascarpone produces a richer zeppola and Greek yogurt can work in a pinch for a tangier, slightly denser result. Whatever you use, drain off excess liquid first; too much moisture makes the batter loose and the doughnuts greasy.
How should I store leftover zeppole? ▼
Store cooled zeppole in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one day; they soften over time. Reheat in a 350°F oven for 3 to 5 minutes to bring back some crispness, then dust with fresh powdered sugar before serving. Avoid the microwave, which makes them chewy. They are not suited to long-term storage.
What do you serve with zeppole? ▼
Classic festival zeppole need nothing more than a snowfall of powdered sugar, but they're lovely with a bowl of warm Nutella, chocolate sauce, honey, or a dollop of sweetened ricotta for dipping. Serve them alongside espresso or a glass of vin santo for an authentic Italian finish, ideally while they're still warm.
